In the storied grist mill that once housed Hen of the Wood, GALLUS HANDCRAFTED PASTA  brings a fresh, approachable vision—celebrating handmade pasta, local ingredients, and the quiet magic of simple food done exceptionally well.

OLD WALLS, NEW ENERGY

Though some thought the acclaimed Hen of the Wood would be a hard act to follow, owner/founder Eric Warnstedt of Heirloom Hospitality, the visionary behind the twenty-year-old restaurant and its sister establishments Doc Ponds Eat & Drink, Prohibition Pig Restaurant & Brewery, and Hen of the Wood, Burlington, looked upon the space as an opportunity to work his magic to create another winner.

Gallus Handcrafted Pasta, a dining venue that remains true to Heirloom Hospitality’s dedication to farm-to-table, local ingredients, and handcrafted culinary experiences, is both new and nostalgic. It has a welcoming, intimate atmosphere that honors the past while inviting diners to experience something distinctly different: the culinary art of pasta making, Gallus also offers reasonably priced wines and classic cocktails, as well as salads and antipasti, in the reinvented space, which benefits from the state-of-the-art kitchen left behind by Hen of the Wood.

 Commissary Chef Tiffany Caldwell is in charge of pasta production and organization at Gallus. 

CRAFT MADE CASUAL

“It’s just simply about the craft of handmade pasta,” Eric says. “Gallus follows the same ethos of Hen of the Wood but is completely different. It’s still a lovely night out and a world-class dining experience, but with its casual atmosphere and lower price point, it’s more approachable.”

A CHEF’S EVOLUTION

Eric credits the Heirloom Hospitality team, his co-owners Chris Goss, human resources director, Jackson Strayer Benton, beverage director, and Executive Chef Antonio Rentas, with developing the concept behind the restaurant and its menus, which are designed with communal dining in mind. Antonio, a young chef who represents the next generation of culinary artists, and is a graduate of the New England Culinary Institute, has been executive chef of Hen of the Wood, Waterbury, for more than a decade.

“It’s awesome to witness his evolution from chef to co-owner,” Eric says. “He has a deep affection for pasta, and although we developed the entire program together, the food comes back to Antonio. And it is his personality that defines the restaurant.”

 Here, she's shown at work, creating the handmade pasta for which the restaurant is known. Every shape, every cut, every noodle is a little celebration of craft and joy.

 ROOTED IN COMMUNITY

Gallus took off almost immediately when it opened in 2024. “We started right out of the gate with a super-warm reception, both by the foodie network and the community at large,” Eric recalls when asked about the restaurant’s rollout. “We had the right combination of approachability and unique destination-type operation. We had lot of tailwinds behind us,” he concludes, referring to the fortune of riding on Hen of the Wood’s coattails.

PASTA WORTH A TWIRL

Each day, the restaurant joyously celebrates handcrafted pasta (200 pounds of it!) in all its glory and shapes, from tagliatelle, bucatini, and cappellacci to snail-shaped lumache. The smaller, focused menu changes by season, with several favorites, such as the pappardelle stuffed with beef with pork Bolognese and polenta.

 Crispy cutlet perfection topped with cool cucumbers, peppery radish, and a snowfall of cheese.

OLD MILL, NEW THRILL

Imagine all of this in a unique setting that is a destination unto itself, a 200-year-old grist mill with original fieldstone walls overlooking Thatcher Creek. Inside, the forty-five-seat space feels reassuringly familiar but delightfully refreshed.

The outdoor patio, with its spectacular view of the waterfalls, is one of the restaurant’s biggest draws in the warmer months, adding an additional twenty-five seats. There’s a four-seat counter to accommodate walk-ins, as well as menus for online and takeout ordering.

 Vermont comfort with a little extra swagger.

EYES ON WHAT’S NEXT

Eric believes that Gallus is making an important contribution to Vermont’s food scene as a welcoming and moderately priced culinary destination. Looking ahead, diners can expect seasonal menu changes, with new pasta shapes and flavors, along with the re-opening of the patio. Even more exciting is the prospect of another Gallus location opening soon in Chittenden County.

Gallus represents both a return to the past and a step forward: a crowd-pleasing restaurant in a familiar setting, yet shaped by a new generation, a fresh concept, and the pleasure of simple food done exceptionally well—and at reasonable prices. It’s a natural evolution for both the space itself and the team behind it.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF GALLUS HANDCRAFTED PASTA

GALLUS HANDCRAFTED PASTA

92 Stowe Street

Waterbury, VT

www.gallushandcrafted.com